Works with SmartThings; a few minor problems/issues; comparision to Switchmate
This switch replaces the cover plate on your existing light switch but allows you to keep the existing switch, thus converting any “normal” switch into a “smart” (Z-Wave Plus) switch without the need for any rewiring. In many regards, it’s similar to the Switchmate or Switchmate Bright, which seems to be the main competitor at the moment for solutions that don’t involve re-writing. [2018 Update: the RealitySwitch Smart Switch Overlay is now no the market and is similar to this but uses ZigBee and is able to fit into multi-gang configurations natively. I haven’t used it but it might be worth looking into as well.] However, there are several differences between this product and SwitchMate:* Most noably, Switchmate works via Bluetooth directly from your phone/tablet (though they’re working on a “Zip” hub that will also allow control over Wi-Fi and, through that, existing HA systems like Alexa or SmartThings); the Ecolink Automated switch works over Z-Wave, which requires a compatible hub/bridge/controller or other HA system. Either will also work similarly to a traditional switch by manually pressing/sliding the product’s visible button/switch.* Switchmate is very easy to install–just plop it on top of the existing light switch and cover plate. Strong magnets hold it in place. The Ecolink requires more effort–removing the cover plate of the existing wall switch (and also the outer/cover plate on the Ecolink itself), placing the inner half of the Ecolink switch on top of the bare light switch and screwing it in with the screws from your old cover plate, then snapping the cover of the Ecolink switch back on. (I’ve uploaded pictures of the Ecolink both with and without the outer plate attached for reference.) I’ve installed two of these and the second one did not work, presumably because the light switch was either on or off when the Ecolink was expecting the opposite, then it jammed when I tried to use it, getting the gears permanently “stuck.” I had to open the gear compartment in the back and fiddle with them to get it to work–not fun. Switchmate cannot be placed on the switch incorrectly since the nub on the switch itself only fits into the Switchmate a certain way (though you could accidentally put either of these products on upside down if you’re not paying attention).* Switchmate requires you to use the Switchmate app on your paired phone/tablet because it works via Bluetooth (or a cumbersome Google Home assistant, though other integrations are promised “soon”–and have been for months now). Your device must therefore also be in Bluetooth range of the Switchmate. The Ecolink works over Z-wave and is entirely dependent on the capabilities of the Z-wave system you’re using it with, but most (e.g., SmartThings) allow you to control it from anywhere, at home or away, and interact with other devices in your system (e.g., you could turn the Ecolink on when a door opens or motion is detected, etc.).* Both require batteries and neither requires re-writing, so both are attractive options for renters or people uncomfortable changing out a light switch. They’re also good options for houses without neutral wires in the light switch box, which most hard-wired “smart” switches require.I’ve used two of these Ecolink switches (ordering more) and both the Switchmate and Switchmate Bright. There are things I like and don’t like about each. Switchmate definitely wins on documentation: it’s so easy to install you almost don’t need any, but the app guides you through any required setup (pairing, etc.). On the other hand, the Ecolink manual was questionably translated and missed some key information. To save you the trouble, what it should tell you on how to install is is (1) remove the screw from the *bottom* of the Ecolink switch, then pop off the outer cover with a flathead screwdriver or similar, then (2) continue with Ecolink’s directions for removing your existing cover plate and replacing it with this product. (Do NOT remove the screws on the back or the gears will probably fall out and you’ll have fun figuring out how they go back together.)Switchmate also wins hands-down on design. It is much easier to install, arguably more attractive, and the Bright model is narrow enough that you can fit more than one on a multi-gang panel. The Ecolink is about the size of a standard wall plate (actually pretty small, so if you’re using mid-size or larger plates to cover up drywall imperfections, beware–see my picture), and you can’t use them in a multi-gang setup since you need to remove the existing cover plate to install it. I’d say that’s its main drawback (definitely is for me since I have switches in multi-gang setups where I’d like to use this but can’t).However, the Ecolink wins (for me and probably most people with an existing HA system) on connectivity: Z-Wave, when used with a suitable home automation system, is great because it’s low power but fairly quick to respond. You don’t have to hope you’re in Bluetooth range, wait for the app and your phone connect, and then finally be able to manipulate the device. Z-Wave “mesh networking” also allows the device to be controlled even if it’s not within direct range of your Z-Wave hub/controller, and most Z-Wave systems also allow away-from-home control via the Internet. However, it does require an existing Z-Wave network, so the Switchmate has the advantage that all you need is your smartphone (or tablet) to control it. It’s therefore much easier for someone with no existing home automation system to set up. The Switchmate Bright also has a built-in motion detector you can use to turn on/off the light (with the Ecolink, you’d need to set that up separately).The Ecolink also has the advantage of exposing a physical switch for you to use. Not only does it make it easier to see whether the actual switch underneath is on or off, it *should* also still allow manual control of the switch when the batteries (two AA cells, included) die. The Switchmate only has a push/touch button that always requires battery power to move the physical switch itself, and you’d have to use the app (or remove the Switchmate) to see how the underlying switch is set (obviously, if it’s an indoor light you can probably figure it out by looking around, but what if you’re using it for a porch or outdoor light or a fan, etc.?).I would love to see a product with the design of the Switchmate Bright with the Z-Wave connectivity of the Ecolink automated switch. In the meantime, however, I’ll keep using both Switchmate and the Ecolink switch: the Ecolink on a single-gang switch I have a frequent desire to automate, and the Switchmate on lesser used switches I’d still like to be able to control from elsewhere around home but don’t care to integrate into my existing HA system. The Ecolink could be improved by better documentation, multi-gang compatibility, and perhaps easier installation (it’s not that hard but still takes a couple minutes, and it’s not easy to move it from one physical switch to another, unlike Switchmate, should that be a frequent need you have).All things considered, the Ecolink is a great way to convert a “regular” switch to a “smart” switch, and it appears to currently be the only Z-Wave (or SmartThings, etc.-compatible) method of doing so that doesn’t require re-wiring. Both the Ecolink switch and the Switchmate products are a good way to get “smart lighting” using switches rather than using smart bulbs or to control anything that uses a switch but isn’t a light (e.g., a ceiling fan). That being said, in most cases I do prefer smart bulbs since they are more capable–e.g., Hue can do different shades of white as well as different colors–but this is fine for my porch where I just want to be able to turn the light on from outside as I come home.PS – There are supposedly two models of the Ecolink, the toggle and decorator models. Despite the description saying this is for decorator switches, it’s actually for toggle switches. The toggle-compatible model is TLS-ZWAVE5, and the decorator-compatible model is DLS-ZWAVE5. I haven’t been able to find the latter anywhere yet, and even this one was hard to find, presumably because it’s so new.PPS – As I mentioned, I’m using SmartThings and was able to get this to work. It does require installing a custom Device Type Handler. Look on GitHub or search the SmartThings Community forums for “ST-EcolinkWirelessLightSwitch” by “ajpri” if you want to use the one I’m using. Installing a custom DTH is not for the faint of heart–at least if you’re not a developer–but it’s totally do-able if you can follow instructions (and a bit easier if you have a GitHub account, though the “copy and paste” method also works). [2018 Update: I’m on Hubitat instead of ST now and using it natively with a built-in generic driver.]

a smart switch without a hot wire.
Update: motor died within a couple month of basically never being used. It is still on my zwave network, the batteries have plenty of charge, but the motor is stuck and wont work to turn the switch on or off. It still receives commands when I tell it to turn off but nothing happens. Avoid this product if possible. Never know when the motor will get stuck but it seems like quality control is poor. I’m pretty upset about it.I needed to put a smart switch on my fireplace, which doesn’t have live power going through it like lights or other switches do. It uses a millivolt setup or a really low voltage (completely safe to touch) wiring setup. This switch is pretty much the only option since it doesn’t require any re-wiring. It only requires you to remove the faceplate from the switch and then this unit acts as the faceplate.It was also slightly smaller than my older faceplate so fitment in tight spaces shouldnt be an issue.I took off 1 star because while it does use AA batteries, which is great, but it DOESN’T REPORT BATTERY LIFE. So the only way to know if your batteries are dead is if the unit stops working. I’ve only been using this switch for 2 months now so it hasn’t died yet, but I know when it does that it could be a problem, for me it would involve my fireplace not being turned off or on when I needed it, so I plan on changing my batteries every year or so (product page claims 2 year life) just to prevent issues with that.

it originally sat too high off the switch and was not actually activating the switch so i trimmed slightly off the plastic standoffs (screw hole stems) so it sits tighter to the switch and now works perfectly.